Thứ Bảy, 26 tháng 12, 2015

Long Weekend in Palenque, Mexico

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With elaborate palaces, temples, and step pyramids dating back more than 1,500 years, the mysterious Mayan ruins at Palenque, in the Mexican state of Chiapas, are among the most important archaeological sites in Mesoamerica. However, they've been practically off-limits to weekend travelers for years due to the hours-long bus rides once required to reach the densely forested site.

Now that Palenque's long-awaited airport has opened, complete with regular one-hour nonstops from Mexico City on Interjet, the region's ruins, stunning aquamarine waterfalls, and authentic Chiapaneco culture are finally within reach. Here's how to spend a long weekend there.
FRIDAY



Start your first full day with a visit to the Palenque archaeological zone, where a few dozen excavated structures are surrounded by lush rainforest that threatens to swallow them up the minute you turn your back. You'll see the immense Temple of the Inscriptions, where the tomb of the great Mayan king Pakal was discovered intact by archaeologists just a half-century ago, as well as the royal palace, which boasted innovations like indoor plumbing way back in the seventh century. A stroll past scenic waterfalls and more moss-covered, half-buried ruins leads you to a museum filled with artifacts and information about the site.



Spend the afternoon splashing around some of Chiapas' most impressive waterfalls, including Misol-Ha, which features a 100-foot cascade with swimming hole and a smaller waterfall hidden inside a cave; and Agua Azul, or Blue Water, named for the falls' neon-turquoise rapids. Hike to the top of the rushing falls and take a dip in the gem-colored water.
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Come evening, venture into town for dinner at Maya Cañada for a taste of haute Chiapaneco fare, like tangy chapay (heart of palm) and a reddish drink called tascalate, a thick, nonalcoholic mixture of cornmeal and chocolate served over ice. Don't miss the chipilín soup, a savory broth made with a spinach-like green and small dumplings of corn masa stuffed with cheese—Chiapas' version of matzo ball soup.
SATURDAY



Get up before the sun to set out for Yaxchilán, another important ruin near the Guatemalan border that's only reachable by thatched-roof motorboat. Climb the steep steps to the Great Acropolis, where you might spot a family of monkeys in the trees overhanging the temple ruins.

Next stop: Bonampak, a city dating to at least the fifth century that's most famous for its impeccably preserved frescoes. The 1,200-year-old murals depict Mayan court rituals, human sacrifice, traditional costumes, and more. On your way out, pick up a set of carved spoons or a necklace, intricately constructed from local woods and seeds by Mayan artisans.

Wind down the day with dinner at Don Mucho's, an Italian-Mexican restaurant inside the lively El Panchán travelers' village, where the pastas are fresh and the nightly entertainment ranges from live music to fire dancing to aerial acrobatics.
SUNDAY



Get up close with ocelots, jaguars, flamingos, and all the other residents of the Aluxes Ecopark, a zoo that also houses spider monkeys, a number of different species of crocodile, and a huge variety of tropical birds. If you're lucky, you'll catch a glimpse of one of the elusive manatees that call the zoo home.

There's not much to see in the town of Palenque itself, but it's worth a stop on your way back to the airport to do a little shopping at the village stores. You can pick up leather sandals for as little as $20, as well embroidered dresses and bags of Chiapas coffee to take home.
WHERE TO STAY

Piedra de Agua is a serene 10-room boutique hotel across from the zoo and not far from the archaeological zone. Each room comes with its own private terrace and secluded outdoor soaking tub. For something especially green, head to El Panchán, a funky compound with affordable Spartan rooms and low-cost campsites. Set amidst the rainforest just outside the entrance to the archaeological zone, the forest is full of abundant animal life—from howler monkeys to frogs to tropical birds—who will sing you to sleep.
TRANSPORTATION
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Even if you're not normally the group-tour type, it really is the best way to get around and see all the attractions. Many companies offer day trips or multi-day tours for up to 15 people that hit all the major sites and sometimes include admission fees and meals. Prices are competitive with public transportation, but the air-conditioned vans are much more comfortable and convenient. Most tour companies have offices in Palenque town, or you can make arrangements through your hotel.

Fall Travel: 5 Essentials for a Hudson Valley Escape

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Follow the Hudson River north of New York City to uncover the riches of the rural-meets-refinedHudson Valley. It's a place where you can reconnect with nature amidst fertile riverfront lands framed by low mountains and generously dotted with wine trails, agro-restaurants, charming small towns, art havens, and historical sites. Come autumn, the region's foliage explodes in a brilliant dreamscape of red, orange, and golden hues, making for a truly spectacular setting. Here are five essential picks for Hudson Valley art, nature, history, and food—plus, a plush lodging perch from which to take it all in.
BEST LODGING: MOHONK MOUNTAIN HOUSE



Proposing the perfect blend of recreation and R&R, the 145-year-old Mohonk Mountain House—a National Historic Landmark—hosts guests in its turreted, 259-room Victorian castle resort, accented with original Victorian woodwork, local antiques, and wood-burning fireplaces; plus, plenty of porches and windows overlooking undulated forests and foothills. Anchored on crystalline Lake Mohonk and tucked away in 40,000 acres of forested reserve, outdoor diversions are plentiful—and largely complimentary—including boating on the lake, hiking on 85 miles of trails, playing tennis, and golfing (free during midweek). Their top-rated, 30,000-square-foot spa boasts an outdoor heated mineral pool and 16 treatment rooms. Room rates (from $299 per person) cover three daily meals, including a formal three-course dinner.
BEST FOODIE EXPERIENCE: BLUE HILL AT STONE BARNS


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The Hudson Valley is sure to put any foodie in a frenzy, what with farmstands and wineries galore, not to mention the Culinary Institute of America. But nowhere in the region—or perhaps the nation—is a meal as memorably mouthwatering as at Blue Hill at Stone Barns. Anchored on a sustainable farm, it’s the epitome of farm-to-table, New American cuisine. Dining here, within an atmospheric historic stone barn (on a former Rockefeller estate), is not just a meal, but an epic epicurean experience. The 10-year-old country outpost of NYC's original Blue Hill restaurant offers just one splurge-worthy fixed menu ($198 per person), seasonally driven by the local harvest. Prepare for a barrage of flavors in upwards of 20 courses, brought out in a flurry of inventive and exquisitely presented small plates prepared by executive chef and co-owner Dan Barber.
BEST OUTDOOR ACTIVITY: MINNEWASKA STATE PARK PRESERVE



There's a reason that everybody from the Rockefellers to the Roosevelts lived in the Hudson Valley: It reflects nature at its finest. Sample the very best of its outdoor offerings at Minnewaska State Park Preserve ($8 per-car fee). Sprawling for some 23,000 acres along the Shawangunk Ridge, the park encompasses waterfalls, "sky lakes," dramatic rock formations, thick forests, and windswept ledges. Dubbed "the Gunks," the white cliffs here (and in the neighboring Mohonk Preserve) offer some of the country's best rock climbing, while the less adventurous can hike 35 miles of historic carriage roads and 25 miles of scenic footpaths. For the most breathtaking of the bunch, walk the leisurely two-mile carriage road encircling Lake Minnewaska, with sweeping cliff-top vistas, glistening lakefront views, and forested canopy trails.
BEST CULTURAL ACTIVITY: STORM KING ART CENTER



For a monumental art fix, seek out Storm King Art Center ($15 for adults). Wowing guests for more than half a century, this sculpture park features large-scale installations in a bucolic setting that spans 500 acres of woodlands, farm fields, and sweeping lawns. Visitors can crane their necks to ogle more than 100 contemporary sculptures crafted by modern masters like Alexander Calder, Isamu Noguchi, Richard Serra, David Smith, and more; don't miss Andy Goldsworthy's Storm King Wall or George Cutts' Sea Change. This year, catch a Buddhism-inspired installation by contemporary Chinese artist Zhang Huan (through November 9). Come early to nab a bike rental, and look to their events calendar for special concerts, kids' days, and more.
BEST HISTORIC SITE: FRANKLIN D. ROOSEVELT HOME, PRESIDENTIAL LIBRARY AND MUSEUM



F.D.R. held lifelong ties to his childhood home along the Hudson River, returning to hisSpringwood estate in adulthood, where he hosted world leaders like Winston Churchill. Just next door, F.D.R. commissioned what would become America's first presidential library in 1941, the Franklin D. Roosevelt Presidential Library and Museum ($18 for home and library admission). Fresh from a $35 million, high-tech revamp in 2013, it comes bursting at the seams with information, mementos, photographs, videos, and documents spanning Franklin and Eleanor's personal and public lives, especially those relating to his four terms in office, spanning the Great Depression, New Deal years, and World War II.