Long Weekend in Palenque, Mexico

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With elaborate palaces, temples, and step pyramids dating back more than 1,500 years, the mysterious Mayan ruins at Palenque, in the Mexican state of Chiapas, are among the most important archaeological sites in Mesoamerica. However, they've been practically off-limits to weekend travelers for years due to the hours-long bus rides once required to reach the densely forested site.

Now that Palenque's long-awaited airport has opened, complete with regular one-hour nonstops from Mexico City on Interjet, the region's ruins, stunning aquamarine waterfalls, and authentic Chiapaneco culture are finally within reach. Here's how to spend a long weekend there.
FRIDAY



Start your first full day with a visit to the Palenque archaeological zone, where a few dozen excavated structures are surrounded by lush rainforest that threatens to swallow them up the minute you turn your back. You'll see the immense Temple of the Inscriptions, where the tomb of the great Mayan king Pakal was discovered intact by archaeologists just a half-century ago, as well as the royal palace, which boasted innovations like indoor plumbing way back in the seventh century. A stroll past scenic waterfalls and more moss-covered, half-buried ruins leads you to a museum filled with artifacts and information about the site.



Spend the afternoon splashing around some of Chiapas' most impressive waterfalls, including Misol-Ha, which features a 100-foot cascade with swimming hole and a smaller waterfall hidden inside a cave; and Agua Azul, or Blue Water, named for the falls' neon-turquoise rapids. Hike to the top of the rushing falls and take a dip in the gem-colored water.

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Come evening, venture into town for dinner at Maya Cañada for a taste of haute Chiapaneco fare, like tangy chapay (heart of palm) and a reddish drink called tascalate, a thick, nonalcoholic mixture of cornmeal and chocolate served over ice. Don't miss the chipilín soup, a savory broth made with a spinach-like green and small dumplings of corn masa stuffed with cheese—Chiapas' version of matzo ball soup.
SATURDAY



Get up before the sun to set out for Yaxchilán, another important ruin near the Guatemalan border that's only reachable by thatched-roof motorboat. Climb the steep steps to the Great Acropolis, where you might spot a family of monkeys in the trees overhanging the temple ruins.

Next stop: Bonampak, a city dating to at least the fifth century that's most famous for its impeccably preserved frescoes. The 1,200-year-old murals depict Mayan court rituals, human sacrifice, traditional costumes, and more. On your way out, pick up a set of carved spoons or a necklace, intricately constructed from local woods and seeds by Mayan artisans.

Wind down the day with dinner at Don Mucho's, an Italian-Mexican restaurant inside the lively El Panchán travelers' village, where the pastas are fresh and the nightly entertainment ranges from live music to fire dancing to aerial acrobatics.
SUNDAY



Get up close with ocelots, jaguars, flamingos, and all the other residents of the Aluxes Ecopark, a zoo that also houses spider monkeys, a number of different species of crocodile, and a huge variety of tropical birds. If you're lucky, you'll catch a glimpse of one of the elusive manatees that call the zoo home.

There's not much to see in the town of Palenque itself, but it's worth a stop on your way back to the airport to do a little shopping at the village stores. You can pick up leather sandals for as little as $20, as well embroidered dresses and bags of Chiapas coffee to take home.
WHERE TO STAY

Piedra de Agua is a serene 10-room boutique hotel across from the zoo and not far from the archaeological zone. Each room comes with its own private terrace and secluded outdoor soaking tub. For something especially green, head to El Panchán, a funky compound with affordable Spartan rooms and low-cost campsites. Set amidst the rainforest just outside the entrance to the archaeological zone, the forest is full of abundant animal life—from howler monkeys to frogs to tropical birds—who will sing you to sleep.
TRANSPORTATION

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Even if you're not normally the group-tour type, it really is the best way to get around and see all the attractions. Many companies offer day trips or multi-day tours for up to 15 people that hit all the major sites and sometimes include admission fees and meals. Prices are competitive with public transportation, but the air-conditioned vans are much more comfortable and convenient. Most tour companies have offices in Palenque town, or you can make arrangements through your hotel.

Fall Travel: 5 Essentials for a Hudson Valley Escape

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Follow the Hudson River north of New York City to uncover the riches of the rural-meets-refinedHudson Valley. It's a place where you can reconnect with nature amidst fertile riverfront lands framed by low mountains and generously dotted with wine trails, agro-restaurants, charming small towns, art havens, and historical sites. Come autumn, the region's foliage explodes in a brilliant dreamscape of red, orange, and golden hues, making for a truly spectacular setting. Here are five essential picks for Hudson Valley art, nature, history, and food—plus, a plush lodging perch from which to take it all in.
BEST LODGING: MOHONK MOUNTAIN HOUSE



Proposing the perfect blend of recreation and R&R, the 145-year-old Mohonk Mountain House—a National Historic Landmark—hosts guests in its turreted, 259-room Victorian castle resort, accented with original Victorian woodwork, local antiques, and wood-burning fireplaces; plus, plenty of porches and windows overlooking undulated forests and foothills. Anchored on crystalline Lake Mohonk and tucked away in 40,000 acres of forested reserve, outdoor diversions are plentiful—and largely complimentary—including boating on the lake, hiking on 85 miles of trails, playing tennis, and golfing (free during midweek). Their top-rated, 30,000-square-foot spa boasts an outdoor heated mineral pool and 16 treatment rooms. Room rates (from $299 per person) cover three daily meals, including a formal three-course dinner.
BEST FOODIE EXPERIENCE: BLUE HILL AT STONE BARNS

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The Hudson Valley is sure to put any foodie in a frenzy, what with farmstands and wineries galore, not to mention the Culinary Institute of America. But nowhere in the region—or perhaps the nation—is a meal as memorably mouthwatering as at Blue Hill at Stone Barns. Anchored on a sustainable farm, it’s the epitome of farm-to-table, New American cuisine. Dining here, within an atmospheric historic stone barn (on a former Rockefeller estate), is not just a meal, but an epic epicurean experience. The 10-year-old country outpost of NYC's original Blue Hill restaurant offers just one splurge-worthy fixed menu ($198 per person), seasonally driven by the local harvest. Prepare for a barrage of flavors in upwards of 20 courses, brought out in a flurry of inventive and exquisitely presented small plates prepared by executive chef and co-owner Dan Barber.
BEST OUTDOOR ACTIVITY: MINNEWASKA STATE PARK PRESERVE



There's a reason that everybody from the Rockefellers to the Roosevelts lived in the Hudson Valley: It reflects nature at its finest. Sample the very best of its outdoor offerings at Minnewaska State Park Preserve ($8 per-car fee). Sprawling for some 23,000 acres along the Shawangunk Ridge, the park encompasses waterfalls, "sky lakes," dramatic rock formations, thick forests, and windswept ledges. Dubbed "the Gunks," the white cliffs here (and in the neighboring Mohonk Preserve) offer some of the country's best rock climbing, while the less adventurous can hike 35 miles of historic carriage roads and 25 miles of scenic footpaths. For the most breathtaking of the bunch, walk the leisurely two-mile carriage road encircling Lake Minnewaska, with sweeping cliff-top vistas, glistening lakefront views, and forested canopy trails.
BEST CULTURAL ACTIVITY: STORM KING ART CENTER



For a monumental art fix, seek out Storm King Art Center ($15 for adults). Wowing guests for more than half a century, this sculpture park features large-scale installations in a bucolic setting that spans 500 acres of woodlands, farm fields, and sweeping lawns. Visitors can crane their necks to ogle more than 100 contemporary sculptures crafted by modern masters like Alexander Calder, Isamu Noguchi, Richard Serra, David Smith, and more; don't miss Andy Goldsworthy's Storm King Wall or George Cutts' Sea Change. This year, catch a Buddhism-inspired installation by contemporary Chinese artist Zhang Huan (through November 9). Come early to nab a bike rental, and look to their events calendar for special concerts, kids' days, and more.
BEST HISTORIC SITE: FRANKLIN D. ROOSEVELT HOME, PRESIDENTIAL LIBRARY AND MUSEUM



F.D.R. held lifelong ties to his childhood home along the Hudson River, returning to hisSpringwood estate in adulthood, where he hosted world leaders like Winston Churchill. Just next door, F.D.R. commissioned what would become America's first presidential library in 1941, the Franklin D. Roosevelt Presidential Library and Museum ($18 for home and library admission). Fresh from a $35 million, high-tech revamp in 2013, it comes bursting at the seams with information, mementos, photographs, videos, and documents spanning Franklin and Eleanor's personal and public lives, especially those relating to his four terms in office, spanning the Great Depression, New Deal years, and World War II.

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Tips from the Jet Set: The Best Way to Spa

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I've been to a good number spas in my time; either for a day, a long weekend, or a single soporific treatment. I'd never, however, taken a proper spa holiday until recently, when my Monsieur and I spent eight days at Schloss Elmau in the Bavarian Alps. To be fair, Schloss Elmau is more than a mere spa hotel: It's a 5 star resort with skiing in winter, hiking in summer, and a cultural program of concerts and events all year long. But thanks to a nasty bout of bronchitis during our stay, my activity that week was limited to the spa. While Monsieur skied, I sat in the steam room. While Monsieur swam, I snoozed in the sauna. While Monsieur did stuff, I did nothing except turn up to my next Ayurvedic massage. And as fearful as I first was about being bored, I loved it. My week of doing nichts was such a deeply relaxing and restorative experience that I'd recommend it in a heartbeat. Here's what you need to know before you go...
1. CHOOSE WISELY
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Spa hotels vary greatly in terms of facilities, programs, and atmosphere, so before you do anything, think of what you're looking for from your spa stay and research accordingly. If rest and relaxation is your goal, look for spa hotels with quiet zones, meditation classes, and separate facilities for children (if they're allowed at all). If beauty treatments are important to you, find a spa that uses brands and techniques that address your specific needs. If weight-loss is your main objective, avoid spas which serve wine with meals, but if you want a pampering break with a bunch of friends, be careful not to spoil the party by choosing a spa that's dry.
2. BOOK 'EM, DANNO

Although some spa hotels throw in a few freebies during your stay, most treatments cost extra. As a result, you might only book a couple for fear of breaking the bank. My advice? Smash that little piggy and book as many treatments as your heart desires before you go; one per day at least. Provided you've made yourself aware of the spa's cancellation policy (usually 24 hours but always double check) it's better to decide what NOT to do once you're there than to find out that they can't fit you in during your stay.
3. TREAT YOURSELF
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When you're not being kneaded by a masterful masseuse you can always take matters into your own hands by packing a few treatments of your own. A hair masque is a must for lounging in a relaxation room and a good cuticle cream will work wonders when you're hanging out in the hammam. My favorites? Neutrogena Triple Moisture Hair Masque , Aveda Dry Remedy Moisturising Treatment Masque, and Sally Hansen's Cuticle Balm.
4. BE A FLIP-FLOPPER

There's something bizarrely soothing about being with a bunch of strangers all wearing the same bathrobes. Normally provided by the hotel, this terrycloth uniform helps keep the outside world from creeping in to the spa's sanctuary and is a custom respected by the most seasoned guests. Wearers of their own robes look jarringly out of place. Wearers of their own flip-flops, on the other hand, look savvy: Spa slippers are rarely the right size, so in an environment where comfort is key, bringing your own beach thongs is a great idea.
5. LEAVE YOUR INHIBITIONS AT THE SAUNA DOOR

If you venture to a European spa (which I strongly recommend: Germans and Austrians take their spa-time seriously and the French view thalasso as a way of life), be prepared to see lots of skin, male and female, often in the same steamy facility. The atmosphere is meant to be natural, not sexual, and the shock of the nude will eventually wear off. With an accepting attitude and skilfully placed towel, you might even dare to go bare yourself!

I Survived a Weekend at Canyon Ranch

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Swap cocktails for detoxifying drinks, lounging on the beach for workouts, and shopping for herbal purification treatments? I wasn't sure what to expect from the Detox Mini-Break at Miami's Canyon Ranch, but at the outset, it didn't exactly sound like a vacation. But I dove in after a particularly indulgent trip to Tuscany for the hotel's signature brand of luxurious-meets-dead-serious detoxification. And I survived to tell the tale.
WHIPPED AIR FOR BREAKFAST?

Let's start with the menu. Arriving late afternoon I installed myself at one of the four pools and perused the snack options at the cabana. Each dish was followed by a mysterious string of letters and numbers. Checking the key, I decoded the nutritional details. Dining tables came with pepper—but no salt. And forget your daily Diet Coke—think hibiscus tea, coconut water, and fresh lemonade.
But I quickly learned it wasn't all whipped air for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. After a few meals I felt like I was in the non-fat yogurt Seinfeld episode. Presented with a mouthwatering dinner, I wondered how a juicy steak with truffles, kale, and boniato could clock in below 450 calories? I voiced my suspicion to the nutritionist. Turns out I'm not the only one to doubt the numbers. But they're not making this stuff up: dishes go to a lab for analysis. That fact alone made me instantly annoyed at all the non-Canyon Ranch chefs who rely on silly things like salt to pump up their dishes. I was drinking the organic, fresh, spa-healthy Kool-Aid.
I walked away from dinner feeling satisfied and healthy, not weighed down or ultra-full. Or tipsy, for that matter. Though this location serves (organic) alcohol (the Tucson flagship doesn't—though you'll find booming wine sales at the nearest convenient store) I took the detox to heart. It felt strange not skipping cocktails as I chatted with my friends over dinner, but I liked the satisfaction of falling asleep clear-headed.
CULINARY CONFESSIONS

I fessed up to my usual ways though, at consultations with the medical director and nutritionist. I expected horror when I described how my work as a food writer leads me to eat. There's just no way to make drinking bourbon from breakfast till bedtime or eating a dozen slices of pizza in one go in Naples sound reasonable. And though I had to flinch now and then at my own past indulgences, I came away with a list of recommendations and pretty sincere intentions to clean up my diet. Happily, I also got affirmation that going off the rails now and then on an assignment won't sabotage my efforts.
THE REAL GOODIES

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Between the eating and talking about eating was the real fun: a lineup of fitness classes to OD on (boxing and rock climbing and spinning, oh my!) as well as spa treatments galore.
A 140-minute Ayurvedic herbal purification found me in a futuristic, hot, steamy pod called a time capsule, wrapped in herbs and seaweed following an Indian style massage. The next-day, adetoxifying body wrap that included a session in the cocoon-like dry flotation bed left my skin so soft I couldn't stop touching it. The aim was to flush toxins out of my system, aided by the twice daily super-food juices I drank. Kale, beets, pomegranate, and ginger starred in the morning drink, with lemongrass, ginger, and yuzu in the pm. It left me feeling more delicious than it sounds.
My friends and I left full of plans to keep our squeaky clean systems fresh (my husband already had a grocery list from me). I know the real world may have other ideas (like bourbon and pizza), but if I stray too far off the path again, I know where to go—on vacation.

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